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If it’s good enough for Warren Buffett, it’s good enough for you. The world’s second-wealthiest man, according to Forbes magazine, has made the steakhouse -- much-maligned in these fat- wary times -- acceptable, prestigious even, for entertaining business clients. That’s after the billionaire investor chose to hold his annual charity lunches at these joints, auctioning the seats for upward of $1 million each. Buffett hosts his shindigs at New York’s high-end Smith & Wollensky, where a U.S. Prime-grade steak -- the best cuts -- can cost $50. Because Hong Kong charges a premium for imported beef, like-grade meat from the U.S. or Australia's Platinum Prime would probably be too expensive for executives on a budget. Nevertheless, they can choose from a wide range of lower- priced outlets that still serve amazing meat. For economy’s sake, we selected steaks in the midpriced range, about HK$350 ($45). All were ordered medium-rare. The first stop was La Pampa, an Argentine steakhouse whose low prices and top-quality cuts are as surprising as the fact that this place has stayed in business for a decade in a darkened, rarely visited corner of the SoHo district. Its signature bife de lomo, or filet, came in a hearty 250- gram slab (HK$278) of tender, juicy Argentine meat. Carefully char-grilled so that all sides were equally seared, it tastes as good as steaks in restaurants that charge twice the price. Farm Beast There wasn’t much on the menu that hadn’t originated from a large farm beast, so the best alternative to steak was the carved rack of lamb (HK$208), a succulent delight. Unfortunately, it came with a jelly version of mint sauce (not the superior vinegar-based preparation) that was way too sweet. If you think you might have room for starters, you couldn’t go wrong with the caramelized onion soup flavored with smoked ham hock (HK$52). The morcilla, or blood sausage (HK$55), was a sweetly spiced surprise, but probably not for the squeamish. We chose the creamed potato (HK$38) and sauteed vegetables (HK$38) side dishes; the latter wonderfully crunchy, the former a sickly, too-creamy, concoction. One of the newest chains in town is Wooloomooloo Bar and Grill, named after the suburb of Sydney and boasting air-dried and char-grilled Australian meat. Unlike La Pampa’s muted decor that evokes a Latin taverna, Wooloomooloo’s outlet on the edge of the Lan Kwai Fong nightlife district is bright, airy and reminiscent of a Bondi Beach-side cafe. Lonely Steak The hand-sized, rib-eye steak (HK$330) looked a little lonely alone on a standard dinner plate, but it melted in the mouth even after having been trimmed of much of the fat that typifies the cut. Off the steak menu, the fish burger (HK$135), an inspired compression of salmon and sea bass, was spoiled only by being served with French fries; a serving of rice or couscous would have better accentuated its delicate flavors. We went for a fungus frenzy with the starters and sides. The wild-mushroom soup (HK$80) was given an added earthy richness with a dash of truffle oil and the mushroom rigatoni (HK$145) was packed with sliced caps and coated in delicate cream. Added credit goes to the servers, who were unobtrusive yet always on hand with a smile. Their upbeat attitude made a well- earned meal at the end of a tiring week even better. The Union Bar and Grille isn’t strictly a steakhouse, but the cuts it serves have earned a good reputation -- and following -- among the traders and brokers from the Hong Kong Stock Exchange in Exchange Square offices above. Filet and Bacon The premium steak offerings are on the pricey side, but the regular menu has a few gems, including the filet mignon wrapped in applewood-smoked bacon (HK$290); flame grilled and thick, the steak was tasty though a little tough, but the bacon, wrapped around the side of the filet that fused with the beef in the heat, added a complementary note. The 10-ounce version is just filling enough to allow room for the clam chowder (HK$78), which tasted like it had been warmed from a tin. A better choice was the flatbread pizza (HK$65), which was delicious, even though it looked like a large cream cracker with Swiss cheese, ham and chicken. Of the sides, the sauteed mushrooms (HK$50) were a little too garlic-heavy and the scallop potatoes (HK$38) were too cheesy and oily. On the non-steak front, the set menu (HK$258) had options that featured overcooked shrimps that had none of the Thai flavors promised by the server, a crab carbonara in which the seafood took second billing to thick strips of ham and a rich, molten chocolate cake. While the waiters were painstakingly polite, they were also painfully slow, and courses were served out of sequence, with some starters arriving with the main courses. Flame Grilled One of the more modestly priced U.S. chains recently opened in Hong Kong is Craftsteak, which boasts that it flame grills everything, a claim that had us wondering how they served their ice cream. Of the mains, the black Angus sirloin (HK$348) had a crispy, charred surface that yielded to a juicy perfect-pink core. Such care hadn’t been taken with the king prawns (HK$228), which were dry and brittle and whose meat had fused with the shells. The sides were big enough to be meals in themselves: The grilled baby asparagus (HK$38) were flavorful if a little too thin to be put on an open flame, the creamed spinach (HK$38) was a rich favorite of mine and the garlic mushrooms (HK$38) didn’t suffer the usual fate of being served too oily. Of the starters, there was a flurry of excitement over the pea-and-ham soup (HK$68), as the only other place we could remember that cooked such a traditional treat was the local branch of Pret-a-Manger, and they’d stopped serving it months ago. While the macaroni and cheese (HK$38) was chosen from the sides menu, its light creamy sauce and modest size made it an ideal starter. Whichever joint you choose, there’s no such thing as a small portion in Hong Kong’s steakhouses, so be prepared for a slow, sleepy afternoon after your meaty lunch. La Pampa, 32 Staunton St., Hong Kong. Tel: +852-2868-6959 Wooloomooloo Bar and Grill, 29 Wyndham St., Hong Kong. Tel: +852-2894-8010 Union Bar & Grille, Shop 1009, Level 1, IFC Mall, Hong Kong. Tel: +852-2295-1808 Craftsteak, 29 Elgin St., Hong Kong. Tel: +852-2526-0999 The Bloomberg Questions Cost? HK$250-HK$350 per steak. Sides separate. Sound Level? No music but lots of chatter. The sizzling meat in Craftsteak’s open kitchen provides a constant hissing accompaniment. Date place? Not if your companion is vegetarian. Inside tip? Craftsteak’s side dishes are so big they could be eaten as starters or even a main course for children. Special Feature? Union Bar and Grille is one of the city’s only places that serves ice-cold Brooklyn Lager, one of the better beers to come out of the U.S. Private Room? No, but Woooloomooloo has a kitschy nook table with cow-pelt-covered seats and funky knick-knacks. Rating: La Pampa ***, Wooloomooloo **, Union Bar and Grille *, Craft ** What the Stars Mean CONTACT US Phone: (07) 3256 6222 Fax:(07) 3256 6122 andrew@platinumprime.com.au |
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